Karuizawa With Dogs

The walks, cafes, and places to stay that we know and return to, shared for anyone thinking of coming with their dog.

Karuizawa is a small resort town in Nagano Prefecture, about 70 minutes from Tokyo on the Shinkansen. It sits at roughly 1,000 metres on the eastern slope of Mount Asama, high enough that summers here run about 10 degrees cooler than the city. The forests stay green and quiet even in August.

We moved here from Tokyo a few years ago with our dog, Umi. What struck us quickly was how naturally the town accommodates a life built around dogs. Not because of any particular pet-friendly policy. More because Karuizawa has always been a place oriented around being outside, whether walking, cycling, or enjoying long mornings with nowhere to be. The paths are extensive, the pace is slow, and many cafes and small restaurants have outdoor seating that welcomes dogs.

This is a guide to the places we actually use. It is not comprehensive. Karuizawa has hundreds of cafes and dozens of hotels, and we have not been to all of them. What we can offer is the knowledge that comes from living here: where to walk in each season, which cafes are worth the stop, and where to stay if you want your dog to feel as welcome as you do.

Where To Walk

Dogs must be kept on a leash in all public areas of Karuizawa: on paths, in parks, and in commercial areas. Within that, the town has a surprisingly good range of walks packed into a small area. These are among our favorites.

The Harunire Terrace and the Yukawa river

The Harunire Terrace in Naka-Karuizawa is a small cluster of cafes and shops set among trees alongside the Yukawa river. It is a nice spot to sit at any hour, but the walk that starts here and follows the river south through the forest is what we find ourselves recommending most to visitors. Flat, shaded, and quiet, it takes about 20 to 30 minutes each way. On weekend mornings before 8am you will often have the path nearly to yourself. Afterward, Sawamura's Harunire Terrace location is a good stop for coffee and breakfast outside with your dog.

A good first walk for a dog visiting Karuizawa for the first time. Suitable for small and older dogs.

Kumobaike (雲場池)

Kumobaike is a small pond surrounded by birch and maple trees, about 10 minutes on foot from the old Karuizawa shopping arcade. The path around it takes roughly 40 minutes at a relaxed pace. In mid to late October, the trees reflect in the still water and the colours are worth making a trip for on their own. It is one of the most visited spots in Karuizawa, so summer weekends can get busy. Come on a weekday, or on any morning before 9am, and it is a different place entirely.

Peak autumn colour is typically mid-October. Suitable for small and older dogs.

Between Old Karuizawa and Naka-Karuizawa

The two main centres of town are about 4 kilometres apart, connected by a network of quiet villa roads and short stretches of forest. There is no single official path. It is more of a direction than a route and it shifts slightly depending on which streets you take. We walk it regularly with Umi in both directions. The natural way to do it is east to west, finishing at the Harunire Terrace for a coffee. It takes about 90 minutes at a relaxed pace and passes through the quietest, most residential parts of Karuizawa. Since it is a one-way walk, it helps to have a family member or friend meet you in Naka-Karuizawa with a car for the return.

BIRDIE, a small local pet store we recommend in the eating and drinking section, sits along this route and is worth a stop on the way.

Best for active dogs comfortable with occasional passing cars.

Shiraito Falls (白糸の滝)

About 15 minutes by car from central Karuizawa, Shiraito Falls is a wide curtain of water that filters through volcanic rock across a drop of about 70 metres. Dogs are welcome on the access path on a leash. The walk from the car park to the falls and back takes around 30 minutes. Summer weekends can get very crowded on the approach, and the experience suffers for it. A weekday visit, or coming in early June or late October, is ideal. The crowds are thinner, the light through the trees is softer, and you can actually hear the falls before you see them.

Suitable for small and older dogs.

The forests around Hoshino and Naka-Karuizawa

Most visitors to the Hoshino area see Harunire Terrace and not much beyond it. The forest that surrounds it is considerably larger than it looks from the cafes. Old-growth paths through mixed conifer and broadleaf trees extend well past the terrace, and the further in you go the quieter it gets. The Picchio wildlife research centre maintains trails in this part of the forest and is worth looking into if you want a longer walk with more canopy and less pavement.

Suitable for small and older dogs.

Yukawa Furusato Park Dog Run

The dog run at 湯川ふるさと公園 is where many Karuizawa locals bring their dogs. It sits alongside the Yukawa river in a quiet park a short drive from Naka-Karuizawa. The run is fenced and open, with enough space for a dog to move properly rather than just circle. On weekend mornings you will often find a small gathering of local owners and their dogs. If your dog is social, it is a very easy place to spend an hour. Not a scenic destination in the way that Kumobaike or Shiraito Falls are, but just a good dog run, used by people who live here. There are two separate enclosed areas, one for smaller dogs and one for larger dogs.

There is free car parking for the park.

Karuizawa's largest supermarket, Tsuruya, sits directly behind the park. It is an easy combination: let your dog run, then stock up on groceries for the week in one stop. We particularly recommend Tsuruya's many jam options as a fun omiyage option.

Suitable for social dogs.

Yukawa Furusato Park to Nagakura Park

A lesser-known route even among locals, this forest path starts at the trailhead beside the dog run at 湯川ふるさと公園, crosses a main road, and follows the Yukawa river through the trees into Naka-Karuizawa. About 30 to 40 minutes each way. We save it for mornings when we have a little extra time and want somewhere quiet. You are unlikely to pass more than a handful of people, and the sound of the river stays with you for most of the walk. At the Naka-Karuizawa end, Nagakura Park has a small shrine worth a quiet moment if you pass through. A natural combination with the dog run at the start or a coffee stop in Naka-Karuizawa at the end.

Kumano Kōtaijinja Shrine

One of the more unusual things about this shrine is its location. It sits directly on the border between Nagano and Gunma Prefectures at the top of the Usui Pass, at around 1,200 metres, meaning the main hall is technically in two places at once. The shrine dates back nearly 1,900 years, making it one of the oldest in the region.

Dogs are welcome on the grounds, and the reason goes back to the shrine's origins. According to its history, the legendary prince Yamato Takeru passed through the Usui Pass long ago and was guided through thick fog by a sacred bird, and later by a snake on his descent. Because animals played such a central role in how the shrine came to be, the tradition has always been to welcome them rather than exclude them. There is even a small dedicated shrine on the grounds, the Wankou Shrine, built specifically to pray for the health of dogs.

The shrine offers a number of dog-specific items at the altar: health amulets, special dog prayer services, and a paw print ceremony where you press your dog's paw in food-safe ink onto a ceremonial card to pray for their wellbeing. We came here for our New Year prayer and it has become one of our favourite rituals of the year.

Worth visiting in any season, but especially meaningful over the new year period. One thing to keep in mind: shrines can be unpredictable for sensitive dogs. The gongs, sudden sounds, and crowds during busy periods are the kind of thing that caught Umi off guard at a different shrine once in Tokyo. If your dog startles easily, it is worth going at a quieter time of day.

Where to eat and drink

A number of cafes and restaurants in Karuizawa welcome dogs on their outdoor or terrace seating. The list below is not exhaustive — it is the places we find ourselves returning to, or that we feel comfortable recommending to friends visiting for the first time. Policies can change seasonally, so it is always worth a quick confirmation before you go.

Mona's Kitchen & Marketplace

Just off Ginza Dori in the heart of old Karuizawa, Mona's Kitchen is run by a friendly Canadian and serves properly made Western sandwiches that are harder to find in this part of Nagano than you might expect. We particularly enjoy the Jammin' Piggy breakfast sandwich. The marketplace carries pantry goods alongside the food, a small and well-chosen selection that makes it useful for both lunch and stocking up before a few days in a villa. Warm, unpretentious, and right in the middle of the busiest part of town. Dogs are welcome without fuss.

Café Shozo Karuizawa Common Grounds

Café Shozo is connected to the well-regarded roaster of the same name in Tochigi, and the coffee reflects that. The exterior terrace welcomes dogs of all sizes, and small dogs in strollers (which are provided) are allowed inside. If you want somewhere to sit for an hour without being moved along, this is the place. Free WiFi and laptop use are both fine, which makes it a useful stop if you need to get a little work done between walks.

A quick note on dog-friendly cafes in Karuizawa: many places describe themselves that way, but the standard that keeps them welcoming for everyone is a dog that settles quietly beside its owner without bothering other guests. It is a reasonable expectation, and worth keeping in mind before you sit down.

Sugar Spot Coffee

Near Shinano-Oiwake station, a little further west than most visitors tend to go, Sugar Spot Coffee has become one of our favourite stops. The cafe is airy and relaxed, with a small dog run attached where your dog can move freely while you eat. Mt. Asama is visible from the run, which makes it one of the better views in Karuizawa for the price of a coffee. The owner is a devoted baseball fan and the collection of memorabilia that fills the space gives it a personality unlike anywhere else in town. You can even try making your own latte art with the owner's guidance.

DOG DEPT + CAFE

If you arrive by Shinkansen, Dog Dept is likely the first dog-friendly spot you will encounter. It sits close to the station within the Prince shopping area and on a summer weekend the number of dogs outside tells you most visiting dog owners find their way here at some point.

The store carries a solid range of food, accessories, and lifestyle goods for dogs, and the outdoor space is comfortable and easy. A natural first or last stop on a Karuizawa trip.

Burger Mania Karuizawa

The Karuizawa outpost of the Tokyo burger institution brings the same menu north, with an airy interior and a terrace strung with lights that comes into its own after dark. Dogs are welcome inside and outside. Once the sun drops and the lights come on, the terrace is one of the more enjoyable places in town to sit with a dog at the end of a day out. Reliable and unpretentious, we always come back to the chicken wings.

BIRDIE

A small pet store between central Karuizawa and Naka-Karuizawa, BIRDIE carries a curated selection of treats and goods with a focus on local and Japanese brands. It sits next door to a local yoga studio. Not the most obvious combination, but a useful one if you take a morning class and want to pick up something for your dog on the way out.

Accommodation

Karuizawa has a wider range of dog-welcoming accommodation than most Japanese resort destinations. Part of that comes down to history. The town has been a summer retreat for Tokyo families for well over a century, and dogs have always been part of that picture. The places listed here are ones we know to have a real welcome. Policies change, so it is always worth confirming the details directly before you book.

Eau Sol Vert Karuizawa Club

Eau Sol Vert Karuizawa Club is a members' golf club and 13-room hotel set in the forest near Naka-Karuizawa, with views of Mount Asama from its 18-hole course. Six of the rooms allow guests to stay with their dogs, each with its own private dog run, and the property includes a dog run open to day visitors, a café and shop in collaboration with PEANUTS, and terrace dining where dogs are welcome. The residence hotel is open to non-members for both overnight stays and day visits.

Sun'ｓこもろシェルター 森のドッグラン (dog shelter and hotel)

A little west of Karuizawa in Komoro, Sun's こもろシェルター is worth knowing about for a specific situation: when you need somewhere good for your dog while you are otherwise occupied. The facility offers both overnight boarding and day stays within a forest dog run, which makes it a much nicer alternative to a standard kennels. If you are attending one of the many weddings held in the Karuizawa area each summer and want your dog nearby but well looked after, this is where we would point you.

The owner also runs an animal shelter on site. If you are thinking about adding a dog to your family, it is worth a visit with that in mind too.

Villa rental

For most dog owners, a private villa with an enclosed garden is the most comfortable way to stay in Karuizawa. No shared spaces, no anxiety about size restrictions or other guests, and a garden where a dog can move freely. The villa rental market here is well developed. Airbnb and several Karuizawa-specific rental agencies list dog-welcoming properties with enough variety to suit most budgets. If we were choosing, we would prioritise an enclosed garden and easy access to forest paths over almost anything else.

Hoshino Resorts — Kai Karuizawa

Kai Karuizawa is a hot spring inn in the Hoshino area that permits dogs in selected room types. Its location puts you within easy walking distance of the Harunire Terrace and the Yukawa river, which makes it a natural base if you want a hotel with forest access from the door. Worth confirming pet room availability and any size restrictions directly when you book, as these can change by season.

Bleston Court

Bleston Court has the feel of an old European country house, set among trees in Nakakaruizawa. Selected cottage accommodation permits dogs, and the grounds are quiet and spacious. The hotel's restaurant, Yukawatan, is also one of the best spots in Karuizawa for a special meal.

Auberge de Primavera (オーベルジュ ド プリマヴェーラ)

A quiet French auberge about eight minutes on foot from Karuizawa station, Primavera has the unusual quality of feeling further from the centre of town than it actually is. The setting is calm, the food is serious French cooking, and for a stay within walking distance of downtown Karuizawa it is one of the more characterful options available. Small dogs under 10kg are welcome in a limited number of rooms, and the terrace serves as the dining space for guests with dogs.

Peak summer weekends (late July through mid-August) fill dog-permitted rooms at the better hotels months in advance. Autumn is easier to book and less expensive. In our experience it is also the best season for a dog.

When to come

Karuizawa changes significantly between seasons and the timing of a visit makes a difference, particularly for a dog. These are notes on what each season is actually like from the perspective of someone who lives here year-round.

Spring (April through early June)

Spring arrives late in Karuizawa. Cherry blossoms come near the end of April, the town turns green around mid-May, and the season runs roughly four to six weeks behind Tokyo. The air is cool, the paths are soft, and the town is quiet. The exception is Golden Week, when visitors arrive in numbers and the pace changes briefly. If you head south toward the farmland, late May brings its own quiet pleasure: farmers planting their fields, long rows of lettuce just coming in.

Ticks become active from April. If you are walking forest paths, apply preventative treatment before you arrive and check your dog after each walk.

Summer (late June through August)

Summer is the busy season and the one most people think of when they think of Karuizawa. Temperatures average 22 to 26 degrees, noticeably cooler than Tokyo. For dogs who struggle with heat, it makes a real difference. Everything is open, the forests are in full canopy, and the town has a lot of life to it.

Pet-friendly rooms fill up fast in summer, so book well in advance. The popular spots around Harunire Terrace and Ginza Dori get busy on weekend afternoons. Early mornings are cooler and quieter.

Autumn (September through November)

Our favourite season. Temperatures are comfortable and cool, the crowds thin out after mid-September, and the foliage turns gold in a way that makes the drive from Tokyo feel well worth it. The larch forests surrounding Karuizawa are particularly striking in mid-October. The apple orchards in the valleys below are at their peak around the same time. Shinshu apples appear on menus across town, and a small slice makes a good snack for your dog too.

October in Karuizawa with a dog is hard to beat.

Winter (December through March)

Central Karuizawa in winter is quiet. Outside of the Prince Resort ski area, mostly just locals remain. If you visit and are lucky with the timing, you might catch a snowfall and see the forest paths covered in white. For a dog that loves cold and snow, it is a special kind of peace. Most terraces are closed in winter, so there are more limitations on where you can bring your dog. Check opening dates for specific places before you come.

Practical things

Getting here

Karuizawa is about 70 minutes from Tokyo on the Hokuriku Shinkansen. Dogs travel in an approved soft carrier on your lap or at your feet, with a combined weight limit of 10kg for dog and carrier on JR trains. Traveling by car gives more flexibility, particularly for accommodation outside central Karuizawa and for early morning access to the trails.

Veterinary care

Below is a list of vets in the Karuizawa area. During holidays, and especially over the New Year period, many clinics are closed. If you are travelling with a dog at that time of year, it is worth saving the number of a larger pet hospital in Tokyo or Nagano City before you go, just in case.

旧軽井沢菊池動物病院

Location: Central Karuizawa

Phone number: 0267420012

Website: http://www.animal-k.com/

中軽井沢どうぶつ病院

Location: Nakakaruizawa

Phone number: 0267315066

Website: http://karuizawa-vet.com/

This is where we take Umi. We can vouch for them personally, both for their professionalism and the kindness they show to the animals in their care.

西軽井沢どんぐり動物病院

Location: Miyota

Phone number: 0267410950

Website: http://donguri-ah.net/

We make Karuizawa Harvest from the same ingredients this landscape produces. The venison from Nagano's forests, the apples from the orchards. If you come with your dog, we hope this guide is useful.